Saison: The Art of Attenuation

Saison is the most “brewer-centric” style in the world. It is not defined by a specific grain bill or hop variety, but by the Yeast and the Brewer’s Hand. A great Saison is dry, spicy, fruity, and rustic. It is a beer that thrives on stress and high temperatures.

1. The Yeast Dilemma

There are two main “schools” of Saison yeast available to homebrewers, and they behave very differently.

The Classic: Dupont Strain (WLP565 / Wyeast 3724)

Profile: The gold standard. Intense pepper, clove, and subtle citrus.
The Problem: The “Dupont Stall.” This yeast is famous for fermenting vigorously down to 1.030 and then stopping for 2–4 weeks.
The Solution: Heat. This yeast loves heat. Ramp the temperature up to 29°C–32°C (85°F–90°F). Yes, really.
Open Fermentation: Many brewers find that removing the airlock and covering the fermenter with sanitized foil (to eliminate back pressure) prevents the stall.

The Modern Workhorse: French Saison (Wyeast 3711 / Belle Saison)

Profile: Silkier mouthfeel, more lemon/citrus, less peppery spice.
Performance: A monster. It will ferment a boot. It consistently hits 1.002–1.004 gravity in days, regardless of temperature.
Use it if: You don’t have temperature control or are impatient.

2. The Grist: Rustic and Raw

Saison was a farmhouse ale made with whatever was left over.

Base: Belgian Pilsner Malt.
Adjuncts: Up to 20-30% of the grist should be non-barley grains to add “rustic” character and protein haze.
- Wheat (Malted or Flaked): For head retention and doughy flavor.
- Rye: Adds an earthy spice that complements the yeast.
- Spelt: The traditional grain of Wallonia. nutty and complex.
- Oats: For silkiness.
Sugar: Often used (5-10%) to ensure a bone-dry finish.

3. Hopping: Noble with a Twist

Bitterness: Solid bitterness (25–35 IBU) is needed to balance the dryness.
Varieties: Styrian Goldings and Saaz are traditional.
Modern Twist: New World hops like Nelson Sauvin (Gooseberry/Wine), Sorachi Ace (Lemon/Dill), or Hallertau Blanc pair incredibly well with the yeast esters.
Technique: Dry hopping is very common in modern Saisons.

4. Water Profile

You want the beer to be crisp.

Sulfate: High (150–200 ppm).
Chloride: Low (50 ppm).
Gypsum: Add gypsum to the boil to accentuate the dryness and hop snap.

5. Recipe: “Barn Owl” Classic Saison

Batch Size: 5 Gallons (19 Liters)
OG: 1.055
FG: 1.004 (or lower)
ABV: 6.7%
IBU: 32
SRM: 4

Grain Bill

4.0 kg (8.8 lbs) Belgian Pilsner Malt
0.5 kg (1.1 lbs) Flaked Wheat
0.25 kg (0.5 lbs) Munich Malt
0.25 kg (0.5 lbs) Cane Sugar (add at boil end)

Hops

40g (1.4 oz) East Kent Goldings (5.0% AA) @ 60 min
30g (1 oz) Styrian Goldings (4.5% AA) @ 5 min

Yeast

Wyeast 3724 Belgian Saison (Dupont) - Prepare for the stall!

Instructions

Mash: Infuse at 64°C (147°F) for 90 minutes. You want maximum fermentability.
Boil: 90 minutes.
Ferment:
- Pitch at 20°C (68°F).
- Day 2: Ramp to 24°C (75°F).
- Day 3: Ramp to 28°C (82°F) or higher.
- Hold until gravity hits 1.004. Be patient.

6. Carbonation: The Danger Zone

Saisons are traditionally highly carbonated (3.0 – 4.0 volumes).

Bottles: You cannot put 4.0 volumes of CO2 in a standard American 12oz bottle. It will explode.
Glassware: You must use heavy champagne-style bottles or Belgian 330ml/750ml thick-walled bottles.
Kegging: Requires 20-30 PSI to maintain this level. You will need very long draft lines to serve it without foam.

7. Mixed Fermentation

Saison is the perfect base for funk.

Brettanomyces: Adding Brett at bottling produces pineapple/leather notes over time.
Bacteria: Generally avoided unless brewing a specific sour variant, but Lactobacillus can add a refreshing tartness.

Conclusion

Brewing a Saison is a dialogue with the yeast. You can’t control it; you can only guide it. But when you pour that effervescent, dry, spicy nectar, the struggle is worth it.